To do list

Døren er malet med Gori 605, testet ved at forsøge at opløse med isopropylalkohol: Ingen opløsning overhovedet.

When the warm weather returns next year, your 3-step checklist to permanently escape GORI 605 is:

1. The Chemical Strip (Grundrens) : Do not just wash it with water. Use a strong, alkaline industrial grundrens (like Flüren 37 or similar heavy-duty painters' soap). Scrub it with a stiff brush and rinse thoroughly. This chemically cuts through the slick, water-repellent oil skin that the shade has preserved.
2. The Mechanical Key (120-Grit Sanding) : Give it a thorough sanding. You are not trying to sand back to bare pine wood; you just want to turn that rock-hard, shiny black surface into a dull, scratched matte finish so the new water-based acrylic has micro-grooves to bite into.
3. The Deep Gap Detail : Use a thin profile brush to flood the exposed tongue-and-groove shrinkage lines with GORI 612 before you paint the flat face of the door.
   Once those steps are done and your two coats of GORI 612 are on, you will have a flexible, high-durability plastic shield that can handle the drafty slipway climate for up to 15 years without cracking.

Layer 1 (The TræFix Crack-Filler): Use your black TræFix Vand for the first coat. Take a thin profile brush and shove it deep into the shrunken tongue-and-groove gaps. Then, paint the face of the door. The cheap TræFix will act as a colored primer, sealing up the raw wood exposed by shrinkage.
Layers 2 & 3 (The GORI 612 Armor): Once the TræFix is dry, apply two coats of GORI 612 Kulsort over it.